The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

One step at a time, on the path to nirvana

Kanonji in April (Photo: Sanga Park / Shutterstock.com)

Serena Ogawa Aug 05, 2021 - 25분 읽은 시간

Explore Shikoku by embarking on a spiritual journey: the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage. Discover the living culture, historic tradition, and gorgeous landscapes along the path to enlightenment as you visit Shikoku’s 88 temples found in the four prefectures of Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa.

Shikoku is home to abundant nature, stunning landscapes, friendly local people, and rich culture and history. Not on everyone’s bucket list, Shikoku remains largely untouched and one of the most stunning places in the country. This pilgrimage loop of 1,200 kilometers will take you into Shikoku to experience the land as few do.

What is the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage?

The Shikoku pilgrimage, or Shikoku henro, is a well-known circular pilgrimage route that hundreds of thousands undertake annually. Traditionally, pilgrims will journey by foot but the modern-day pilgrim is welcome to use any mode of transportation, of course.

The history of pilgrimages in Japan dates back to at least the Heian period (794-1185), as they have always been an important aspect of Buddhist practice. The Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage is associated with a Buddhist monk named Kukai who was born at the 75th temple on the path.

Known also by his posthumous name, Kobo Daishi, Kukai was influential in promoting Buddhism in Japan and is lauded for his many achievements. The Shikoku 88 temples are all places that Kukai is believed to have visited, studied, or worshipped at. Along with the main 88 temples, there are dozens of lesser temples along the way that also creates a serene atmosphere of spirituality for any pilgrim.

Pilgrim along the coast (Photo: Amehime / Shutterstock.com)

Where to start the pilgrimage?

There are many ways to visit the temples and no two pilgrims will have the same experience. In fact, some even consider visiting the temples in reverse order to be lucky while others first visit Mount Koya in Wakayama Prefecture to begin their journey. Completing the pilgrimage can take up to two months if done by foot as the entire length is 1,200 kilometers or 750 miles!

The pilgrimage is a physical metaphor for the path to enlightenment and, as such, the temples represent the Buddhist path itself. Temples 1 to 23 represent awakening (hosshin), 24 to 39 relate to discipline (shugyo), 40 to 65 represent attaining enlightenment (bodai), and finally, 66 to 88 are entering nirvana (nehan).

With this progression of the temples, your journey of enlightenment will be a lifelong memory of Japan and your spirituality. Whether you visit eight temples on a mini-pilgrimage or all eighty-eight, it’s sure to become a deeply personal experience.

Popular Shikoku 88 pilgrimage routes

From Mount Koya (Wakayama)

Thanks to being first settled by Kukai in 819 CE, Mount Koya has heavy ties to Buddhism in Japan and makes it a great place to begin your pilgrimage. From Mount Koya to the first temple of the Shikoku 88 is a 4.5-hour trip by bus and train.

From Ryozenji (#1, Tokushima)

This is the traditional route. By beginning in Tokushima and traveling through the 88 temples, you’ll follow in the footsteps of the pilgrims who came before you and have a traditional pilgrimage experience.

From Okuboji (#88, Kagawa)

A gyaku-uchi (backward) voyage of the Shikoku 88 is considered the more advanced and adventurous method to hiking the temples. Markers go in reverse order and the people you meet along your reverse-order pilgrimage will be different at every temple.

Planning your Shikoku 88 pilgrimage

What to bring for the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage?

Today, many pilgrims (o-henro-san) are easily identifiable by their attire and belongings. Of course, you don’t have to dress the part but it is the tradition and by doing so you may be presented with unique opportunities to participate in local culture and communicate with more people.

Sedge hat (sugegasa) Useful to block your face from the elements of nature this hat provides mild protection. It isn’t necessary to remove it while praying.
White vest (hakui) Representing innocence and purity, the white clothes a pilgrim wears were also once associated with a death shroud stating that pilgrims were ready to die at any moment.
Bell (jirei) This is rung after each sutra is recited.
Prayer beads (juzu) These rosary beads are used in a similar manner to those of Catholicism, that is, grasped while the hands are in prayer.
Bag (zuda-bukuro) This bag typically holds all of your items related to the pilgrimage itself, such as name slips, pilgrimage book, candles, and other items.
Stole (wagesa) Symbolic of the full Buddhist robe attire, this piece of cloth is worn around the neck and comes in many colors and patterns.
Staff (kongo-zue) Representative of Kobo Daishi and his guidance for each pilgrim. In the past, these were also used as grave markers for pilgrims who passed away en route.
Name slips (o-same-fuda) These are used as a type of business card with your name and information written on them. They are left at temples you visit along the pilgrimage or given to those with whom you get to know well. They are also given to people who offer alms (o-settai) to you.
Pilgrimage book (nokyo-cho) Each temple you visit has its own stamp and a monk to sign it. This book is a memento and proof of every temple you pass.

The start of the pilgrimage at Ryozenji (Photo: funboxphoto / Shutterstock.com)

Traveling the pilgrimage route

Going on a pilgrimage is a huge undertaking. Here are some time and cost estimates to help you plan.

By foot

If you can average about 30 km (19 miles) a day, the entire Shikoku pilgrimage by foot will take you 6 weeks and cost roughly 400,000 yen. This averages about 8 hours of walking a day.

Accommodation options can be found along most of the path, with simple lodgings and food sometimes offered at temples. The Buddhist vegetarian meal (shojin ryori) is simple but filling enough for you to carry on the next day.

By car

The least expensive and quickest way to see all 88 temples is to rent a car and drive the circuit. This does have a few drawbacks, you’re less likely to meet fellow pilgrims and you’ll need a valid license. However, the whole course can be completed in roughly 10 days for 140,000 yen.

Of course, you’ll need to find accommodation for yourself and a parking space for your car. Booking in advance will help you stay on track.

By bus

If you’re not on a rigid schedule and want to maximize your time with meeting other like-minded pilgrims, why not try a chartered bus tour? They will take about 9 to 12 days and run 250,000 yen.

You’ll be staying at a lodging pre-planned by the tour group and also accompanied by a guide. This is a great option if your Japanese is up to par or if you want a challenge while traveling.

Pilgrims pray at Kiyotakiji (Photo: Amehime / Shutterstock.com)

Where to stay on the pilgrimage

While you're traveling around Shikoku visiting the 88 temples, you'll need a place to spend the night. One option, for those with little Japanese skill, is to use Henro House for booking. If you're more comfortable with Japanese, you might try booking a minshuku (民宿), or Japanese traveler's inn. Minshuku typically offer sparse amenities with a futon, basic facilities, and a meal plan, for an additional fee. These need to be booked in advance and cancellations have to be made in advance as the meals are prepared from fresh ingredients bought the day of your visit.

Looking for something a bit more lavish, a ryokan (旅館), a traditional Japanese inn, is a comfortable option but they are often more expensive than a minshuku.

O-henro tips

These final tips will ensure that you have the best pilgrimage possible.

March to May and October to November are the best times to do a pilgrimage.
Display proper etiquette when visiting each temple.
Give a name slip with as much information as you feel comfortable giving out to anyone who helps you.
Walk the route however you like in whatever order makes sense to you.
You do not have to walk the entire route. Use other means if needed.
Find a guidebook if you feel uncomfortable with the language.
Just start!

The 88 temples

You're ready to take your first steps on the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage now. This loop-shaped course covers a lot of ground and time. Find out what each temple is known for as well as your travel distances to the next stop:

Awaken your spirit in Tokushima Prefecture: Temples 1–23

1. Ryozenji

This is the first temple in the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage and is always crowded with worshippers.

Distance to next: 1.2km

2. Gokurakuji

A quiet residential district temple. Pray here for a smooth pregnancy.

Distance to next: 2.5km

3. Konsenji

A temple where you can pray for general improvements to your life.

Distance to next: 5km

4. Dainichiji

Enshrined here are statues related to sacred places in the west.

Distance to next: 2km

5. Jizoji

Bask under the large ginkgo tree bearing over 800 years of history.

Distance to next: 5.3km

6. Anrakuji

Soak in the natural hot spring called Onsen Mountain, a popular stop for pilgrims.

Distance to next: 1km

7. Jurakuji

A temple where you can pray for treatment of the eyes.

Distance to next: 4.2km

8. Kumadaniji

This temple has the largest Niomon Gate among the 88 Shikoku temples.

Distance to next: 2.5km

9. Horinji

A temple that is reputed to heal physical disabilities.

Distance to next: 3.8km

10. Kirihataji

This temple is popular among women who wish to become good people for its legend about a woman who immediately became a Buddha upon offering Kukai cloth cut from her weaving.

Distance to next: 9.8km

11. Fujiidera

Surrounded by ancient wisteria that blooms in summer; don't miss the ceiling painting of a fearsome dragon. Be careful of the path leading to the temple as it is reputed to be a difficult path for men and women.

Distance to next: 12.5km

12. Shosanji

Natural monuments of giant ancient cedar trees welcome the pilgrims here. In summer, one can also find plums and sudachi citrus fruits.

Distance to next: 21.5km

13. Dainichiji

This temple is said to protect the elderly from dementia.

Distance to next: 2.5km

14. Jorakuji

Araragi Daishi is enshrined here who protects children and heals their pains.

Distance to next: 1km

15. Kokubunji

In 2000, the dry garden here was designated as a national scenic garden.

Distance to next: 1.7km

16. Kan-onji

A temple reputed to heal eye ailments and mobility disabilities.

Distance to next: 3km

17. Idoji

Look at your reflection in the well dug by Kobo Daishi and you'll be safe from disease and illness for 3 years.

Distance to next: 19km

18. Onzanji

A temple that welcomed women during a ban upon their entry.

Distance to next: 4km

19. Tatsueji

This temple has a legend of a woman who confessed her sins. Upon confession, her hair stood on end and got caught on the bell of the temple.

Distance to next: 14km

20. Kakurinji

The long, arduous trek to this temple's main gate is marked by 11 checkpoint stones and smaller temples. It is also home to the oldest cobblestone in Tokushima and a three-story pagoda.

Distance to next: 6.5km

21. Tairyuuji

Ride a ropeway to the summit in order to visit this temple. Enjoy the majestic sights of nature around you.

Distance to next: 12km

22. Byodoji

The temple heals people's hearts and bodies from disease. If you approach the temple slowly while gazing at the statue of Buddha, it is said you will be healed.

Distance to next: 21km

23. Yakuoji

The final stop in Tokushima. It is said that praying and offering a tithe at this temple will release you from bad karma.

Distance to next: 83.5km

Discipline yourself in Kochi Prefecture: Temples 24–39

24. Hotsumisakiji

The ancient Tosa district's first ascetic training dojo and a nationally designated important cultural property.

Distance to next: 7km

25. Shinshoji

A temple overlooking Murotsu Port, Cape Gonto, and the Pacific Ocean.

Distance to next: 4km

26. Kongochoji

This temple enshrines many important cultural properties; one such item is a kettle that Kobo Daishi used to save people from hunger.

Distance to next: 30.5km

27. Konomineji

Enjoy the beautifully landscaped gardens are this temple and listen to the warbler birds singing.

Distance to next: 38.5km

28. Dainichiji

This temple was refurbished in 1997 using only wood, there are no nails holding the temple together.

Distance to next: 9km

29. Kokubunji

The simple temple's beauty lies in the nature that decorates it at the changing of each season.

Distance to next: 7km

30. Zenrakuji

The Jizo stone statue here is said to grant relief from sickness of the throat and brain.

Distance to next: 7.5km

31. Chikurinji

Visit the only five-storied pagoda in the prefecture and have a view of Kochi from the temple grounds.

Distance to next: 6km

32. Zenjibuji

Prayers at this temple are made in hopes of safe travels, especially sea travels.

Distance to next: 7.5km

33. Sekkeiji

Destroyed once during the Buddhism-purge at the beginning of the Meiji Restoration, this temple is also known as the Snowy Cliff Temple.

Distance to next: 6.5km

34. Tanemaji

Bottomless wooden ladles are sold at this temple to pray for a safe birth; once the birth is finished, the ladles are returned to the temples.

Distance to next: 9.5km

35. Kiyotakiji

A famous temple where you can pray for bad luck and ill omens to disappear from your life.

Distance to next: 15km

36. Shoryuji

Also known as the Green Dragon Temple for its deity carving by Kobo Daishi, the statue is the guardian of fishermen.

Distance to next: 55.5km

37. Iwamotoji

A mandala of 575 individual paintings makes up the ceiling of this temple.

Distance to next: 86.5km

38. Kongofukuji

It is said that the pond on this temple's grounds is the closest connection to where Kannon lives.

Distance to next: 56km

39. Enkoji

The original bell of this temple is enshrined within. To the right of the entrance, there is medicinal water said to cure eye diseases.

Distance to next: 30km

Attain enlightenment in Ehime Prefecture: Temples 40–65

40. Kanjizaiji

A temple where you can pray to your zodiac guardian.

Distance to next: 48km

41. Ryukoji

A temple surrounded by seasonal flowers; look forward to the Cosmos Festival held every November.

Distance to next: 3km

42. Butsumokuji

This temple has long been popular with farmers to pray for the well-being of livestock.

Distance to next: 11km

43. Meisekiji

A temple with history dating back to the 6th century, surrounded by an old-growth forest.

Distance to next: 70km

44. Taihoji

An enshrined gold Kannon statue is enshrined here, believed to be over 1,000 years old.

Distance to next: 9km

45. Iwayaji

This temple, 700 meters above sea level, is embedded in rock and has many gorgeous stone carvings.

Distance to next: 17.5km

46. Joruriji

Find unique stone imprints of Buddha's hands and feet at this temple.

Distance to next: 1km

47. Yasakaji

The "helping hand" stone is found at the 10th step from the bottom of the stone steps. It's said to heal your troubles, foot, and eye diseases.

Distance to next: 4.5km

48. Sairinji

The small bamboo grove here is said to be a symbol of family well-being.

Distance to next: 3km

49. Jodoji

Find Muromachi-era graffiti on the temple walls for a tidbit of history.

Distance to next: 1.5km

50. Hantaji

Pray at this temple for wealth, luck, marital harmony, and prosperous business.

Distance to next: 2.5km

51. Ishiteji

Receive a power stone from this temple, famous for the phrase, "fall down seven times, get up eight."

Distance to next: 10.5km

52. Taisanji

It is said that visiting this temple ensures that you will not suffer in your next life.

Distance to next: 2km

53. Enmyoji

It is believed that when a bad person looks upon the dragon statue here, the eyes will light up.

Distance to next: 34.5km

54. Enmeiji

A temple that has endured many fires and has been rebuilt many times.

Distance to next: 3.6km

55. Nankobo

The temple houses the sedge hat of Kawamura Kizan who won the first Art Academy Prizes for calligraphy.

Distance to next: 3.1km

56. Taisanji

A temple where one can pray to calm the spirits of people who have lost their lives due to floods.

Distance to next: 3km

57. Eifukuji

In 1958, a physically disabled 15-year-old boy visited the temple and had his legs healed. Today, his cart and crutches remain at the temple.

Distance to next: 2.5km

58. Senyuji

The temple often houses pilgrims for the night, reservations are required.

Distance to next: 6.2km

59. Kokubunji

Visit in early April to see the Chinese camellia flowers in full bloom.

Distance to next: 33km

60. Yokomineji

This temple is located on the highest peak in the area, Mt. Ishizuchi, and is a sacred place for training and mountain worship.

Distance to next: 10km

61. Ko-onji

A part of this temple, erected in 1950, was dedicated to school education.

Distance to next: 1.5km

62. Hojuji

This temple is popular for prayers of national peace, wish fulfillment, and protection during childbirth.

Distance to next: 1.4km

63. Kichijoji

Pass under the Kikuri Kichijoten statue to rid yourself of poverty and receive wealth.

Distance to next: 3.5km

64. Maegamiji

Visit July 1st to experience the Opening of the Mountains, white robes are laid upon the ground and conch shells are blown.

Distance to next: 45km

65. Sankakuji

This temple is said to cure warts and corns on the feet. Dedicated a votive picture of an octopus and pray and the suckers will remove the corns from your feet.

Distance to next: 20.5km

Find the path to nirvana in Kagawa Prefecture: Temples 66–88

66. Unpenji

The 500-life size Buddha's apprentices statues create a holy atmosphere.

Distance to next: 13.5km

67. Daikoji

The main hall of this temple is filled with red candles. They remain lit for 7 days to pray for healing, safe birth, and goodwill to others.

Distance to next: 9km

68. Jinnein

Be sure to view the garden here with its lovely flowing waters, rocks, and delicate slopes.

Distance to next: 0.5km

69. Kan-nonji

The temple is said to house the oldest graffiti in Japan. There are also beautiful painted wooden panels.

Distance to next: 4.7km

70. Motoyamaji

The Nara-era-style five-storied pagoda here is a designated national treasure.

Distance to next: 12.2km

71. Iyadaniji

Lion-shaped stones here are heavily tied to the Buddhist faith as they are believed to be similar to Buddha's preaching.

Distance to next: 4km

72. Mandaraji

The wooden sculptures at this temple are considered to be holy relics.

Distance to next: 0.4km

73. Shusshakuji

A 50-minute climb from the temple grounds, the pilgrimage hall is home to prayer on the 15th day each month and offers stunning views.

Distance to next: 2.5km

74. Koyamaji

This temple protects against anything that harms the body or mind and provides powerful blessings to its visitors.

Distance to next: 1.5km

75. Zentsuji

In the basement of the Mikagedo building, there is a passage spanning 100 meters in absolute darkness.

Distance to next: 2.3km

76. Konzoji

The 1st Saturday and Sunday in September see a fire-walking festival that general worshipers can also participate in.

Distance to next: 3.9km

77. Doryuji

Over 200 Kannon statues line this temple, they are placed for unborn children and travel safety.

Distance to next: 7.1km

78. Goshoji

About 10,000 miniature statues of Kannon are enshrined here to fulfill the wishes of pilgrims.

Distance to next: 6.3km

79. Tennoji

The stone waterfall facade here is considered holy and makes for a striking image.

Distance to next: 6.3km

80. Kokubunji

This temple houses the oldest temple bell in Shikoku. It is the subject of many legends.

Distance to next: 6.7km

81. Shiromineji

Famous for its many events throughout the year, this temple also has fantastic seasonal flowers.

Distance to next: 4.6km

82. Negoroji

There is a legend of the bull devil at this temple. It once terrorized the local community and was slain by a bow master who dedicated the beast's horn to the temple.

Distance to next: 13.3km

83. Ichinomiyaji

The Hell's Cauldron at this temple is said to differentiate between those living a good life or a bad one. Put your head inside and if you cannot remove it, you should repent for your bad deeds.

Distance to next: 13.7km

84. Yashimaji

The Yashima Temple Museum is to the left of this temple and provides history and a preserved look at many treasures.

Distance to next: 7.2km

85. Yakuriji

This temple is said to be protected by a good tengu who performs good deeds for the people. If the wooden clogs at the temple are dirty, it is said that the tengu worked hard the night before.

Distance to next: 6.5km